Gibb's Farm was definitely a place where we would have like to stay longer. The accommodations were probably the best of our journey in Africa so far but experiencing a working farm combined with walking tours in the surrounding jungle and the farm gardens had been a real treat. As well, we got to sit out both nights in large Muskoka-type chairs and sip on wine before dinner overlooking the farm valley. Absolutely relaxing. I managed to put a good dent in the bottle of Abelore that Di picked up fo me at duty-free in Entebbe. I'm certain Zanzibar is going to be quite different but hopefully as rich in history and experience.
There were other neat things about our stay at Gibb's.
Certainly an eclectic group of tourists made up of Canadians, Americans and yes, good ol' Brits. In fact there was an ancient Brit who has been coming back to the same place since 1947 even before it had a lodge. He was quite old and stooped and still mostly there but had that British "air" about him of days gone by. Nothing pretentious about him and he reminded me of the deaf old Major on Fawlty Towers holding his hand to his ear when he talked. He told us his wife was going to be "right good mad at him" because he misplaced/lost $400. (Been, there done it, got the damn T-shirt). Anyways, he was off to a big game hunting reserve (yes...they still have them) and I doubt he could hold up a pistol let alone a game rifle and shoot it. Nice old lad....not like my "bush baby" buddy. There was also a table of well-to-Americans and wouldn't you know, one of them grew up on Wellesley street in McKellar Park in Ottawa.
As I mentioned in our previous Blog, they put hedges of "nettles" around the vegetable patch that the baboons like. If you have never experienced nettles, you will be happy to pass on it. Little stingers that radiate stinging pain once they pierce your skin. Regardless, Di got one of the grounds keepers to shoo baboons away from our cottage since they were outside the washroom window while she was showering. LOL
While their wines and beers were all new to us, they were tasty and enjoyable without exception. Everything was very affordable and all the food (including meat) was farmed or raised on the property. Everything 100% organic and service was excellent.
Enough on Gibb's Farm.
We have a 1 1/2 hour road journey to Arusha where we will catch a regional flight over to Zanzibar. For the first time in our entire trip, to date, we are on a smooth paved road between destinations. It's almost boring if it wasn't so comfortable. It is a very smooth and quiet ride through hills and the Rift Valley. We immediately noticed the absence of wildlife and it makes us realize that large areas of Africa have given way to farming and herding and have forced the wildlife out. The Maasai control the land all the way down to Arusha and you see herds of cattle mostly and herds of sheep and goats during the drive. Kind of sad when you think about it for such a large expanse of land with no wildlife but fortunately the country had the wisdom to put aside large tracts of land like the Serengeti and the Ngrorongoro Crater Reserve to protect and maintain a stable population of wildlife.
We finally arrive at the airport in Arusha and board a 12 seater to fly over to Zanzibar in the Indian Ocean (Did you know that is where it is Janet? Wildebeest......I'm still chuckling). The flight from the mainland takes 1 1/2 hours and we are looking forward to a couple of days of beach time before heading into Stone Town for the last couple of days touring the area and learning more about its Portuguese and Arab history and the infamous slave and spice trade. (BTW.....There are 10 passengers on the flight, 8 of which are Canadians). Go figure.
It's a long drive to Pongwe Beach but well worth it. Right out of a Somerset Maugham novel. We get private villas with large Lanais and we are about 100 feet off the Indian Ocean. We have a palm thatched roof umbrella with two chez lounges on the beach in front of our villa and two hammocks tied to palm trees. (We haven't figured out where Louise will sit.). We get changed and get right into the ocean. Very warm and the salt water is not too strong. They caution us not to step on sea urchins that apparently are in the water.
As my brother Buck and sister Lynda reminded me before heading out on this trip, the famous Portuguese explorer Vasco Da Gama first set foot upon Zanzibar in 1499 when he sailed around the Cape of Good Hope. (Damn it was inspiring growing up with such well informed siblings). Since then it has undergone several regime changes and was once considered for a protectorate of the U.S. of A. But we will wait until we get to Stone Town for more on its history to do it justice.
For now, it is off to the large open dining room for fish stew, beef biriyini and a French Bordeaux.
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